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THE WARREGO PROJECT - Building Process
Warrego Bungalow - The Typhoon-Proof Design (IN CONCEPT BUILD)
The Complete Building Process
The Concrete Slab
The basic slab for both the Bandera and Warrego Bungalows are approx 15.6 meter long by 8.4 metre wide.
Slab construction details:
There are a number of good sites on the Internet showing the complete process of slab construction with materials required.
If you want to go down that road yourself instead of hiring a professional, you are better off following one of these sites.
Below find a number of good examples:
How To Lay a Concrete Slab in 7 Simple Steps
How To Pour a Concrete Foundation
How to Build and Setup a Concrete Foundation for Garages, Houses, Room Additions Ect (VIDEO)
(See Video Below)
Our Bungalows comprise two foundation slabs. The Primary one being the basic Bungalow slab, 15.6 meter x 8 .4meter wide.
The Secondary Slab is the exoskeleton slab that ties the entire construction together.
The width of the secondary slab (the Exoskeleton slab) is 30 cm. Which gives a total length of both slabs at 16.8meter and a total width of 8.4meter. (Refer Sketch 2)
Refer to the following PDF Plans:
The first step of course is laying out and pouring the primary slab. When that slab has hardened sufficiently, the next step is to mark out to locations for the Exoskeleton posts on the perimeter of the primary slab as in (Sketch 2).
The next step is to cut steel Exoskeleton Posts and weld top bracket attachment point for the top Hardwood Beam and 18mm Rebars which anchor the posts to the concrete slab. (Refer Sketch 6 and Sketch 6B).
For the details to Manufacture the EXOSKELETON POST ERECTION STAND
(Refer Sketch 7).
SETTING THE EXOSKELETON STEEL POSTS INTO THEIR LOCATIONS
Manufacture of the steel posts:
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Cut to length: 3m. Weld top plate and Timber Beam steel brackets to top of post, and two 18mm rebar concrete anchor brackets to base of posts`. (Refer to Sketch 3A for Measurements).
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To set the posts, we use our special Erection Stand. Place stand on edge of Slab, lining it’s centre V mark with the post location position on edge of slab. Lock the Stand in position with a suitable weight (such as a bag of sand) on rear of Erection Stand. (Refer Sketch 3B).
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Set steel post in hole, attaching top plate on post to matching plate on the top of the Erection Stand with two 18mm hex head bolts and nuts. Use Locking Strap on bottom of erection Stand to fasten Post into receiving V-cup on Stand.
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Check positioning, then pour concrete mix into hole up to just 150mm below top of Primary Slab. When sufficiently hardened, remove erection Stand and set up in next hole. Repeat for all holes. (Refer Sketch 1A for locations).
INSTALL EXOSKELETON TOP HARDWOOD BEAM
Fit beam to post tops using two 12mm , 5.5inch long high Tensile hex head bolts with Nyloc nuts per post.
Join connecting beam sections with 200mm x70mm x 3mm steel plates and corners with 100mm x 100mmx70mmx3mm steel corner brackets. (Refer Sketch 10).
Building The Roof
BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO BUILD THAT ROOF, IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO DO SOME SCHOOLING ON THE PROJECT FIRST
The Discipline of Learning Something New
When we are young, learning happens almost automatically. Our brains are eager, curious, and constantly absorbing information. But as we age, something interesting happens. We become very good at what we already know — and strangely resistant to what we do not know.
This resistance is not a sign of weakness. It is simply the brain protecting its habits.
When you learn a new tool — for example the Speed Square used to design rafters and roof angles— your brain must temporarily step out of its comfort zone. It has to build entirely new pathways of understanding.
That requires three very important conditions:
1. Total Attention
Learning something new requires undivided focus.
If your mind is half on the television, or something else, and only half on the lesson, the brain simply does not encode the information properly. Learning demands the same focus a pilot gives when landing an aircraft- total undivided attention.
For a short period, nothing else must exist except the tool and the lesson.
2. Slow and Careful Observation
The first step in mastering any tool is watching carefully.
When learning the Speed Square, you must observe:
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the markings
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the pivot point
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the degree scale
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how the square locks an angle
Your brain is quietly mapping how the tool behaves. This stage often feels slow — but it is the foundation of mastery.
3. Immediate Practice
Knowledge becomes real only when the hands move.
After seeing how the Speed Square works, you must immediately:
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mark angles
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lay out rafters
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test the measurements
The brain learns fastest when seeing, thinking, and doing all happen together.
(There is a lot of truth in that old saying ‘Keep your eye on the ball’)
Figurative meaning (in everyday life)
👉 Stay focused on what really matters
👉 Don’t get distracted or lose concentration
👉 Keep attention on your main goal or task
A Final Truth
Older learners often think they are slower. That is not quite true.
What older learners actually possess is judgment and experience. Once the new concept “clicks,” they often understand it more deeply than younger people.
But the key remains the same:
Learning something new requires a short period of total concentration.
👉 Turn off distractions.
👉 Give the tool your full attention.
👉 Observe carefully.
👉 Then use it immediately.
Do that, and even a simple piece of metal like a Speed Square becomes a powerful instrument for designing an entire roof.
WHY WE SHOULD WATCH 'HOW TO DO IT' VIDEOS ON HIP AND GABLE ROOF CONSTRUCTION (before we attempt to build)
Watching “How-To” videos on building hip and gable roofs is actually one of the best learning tools available today—especially for practical construction work like the bungalow projects you will be working on. A roof frame is a 3-D geometry problem, and videos show things that drawings alone cannot.
Here are the main reasons they are so valuable.
1. They Show the Geometry in 3D
A roof frame involves angles, compound cuts, and relationships between components:
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Rafters
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Hip rafters
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Jack rafters
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Ridge beam
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Birdsmouth cuts
When you watch someone assemble it step-by-step, you can see:
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how rafters sit on the wall plate
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how the hip rafters meet the ridge
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how jack rafters step down the hip
For something like our 16.7 m × 8.7 m bungalow, seeing the actual alignment of pieces helps far more than just reading numbers.
2. You Learn the Carpenter’s “Tricks”
Experienced carpenters use shortcuts that rarely appear in books:
Examples include:
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Speed square methods for laying out rafters
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Marking common rafter templates so every piece is identical
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Cutting multiple rafters at once
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Using story poles to transfer measurements
These tricks can cut framing time by half.
3. They Help Avoid Expensive Mistakes
Roof framing mistakes can be costly.
Typical errors beginners make:
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wrong birds mouth depth
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incorrect ridge height
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rafters twisting or spreading
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hip rafters cut at the wrong compound angle
Seeing the process visually helps you spot these issues before cutting timber or steel.
4. They Show the Correct Construction Sequence
Order of assembly matters.
Typical sequence shown in good videos:
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Set wall plates
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Install ridge beam
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Fit first pair of rafters
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Brace temporarily
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Install remaining rafters
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Add hips and jack rafters
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Install collar ties / ceiling joists
Watching this sequence prevents the common mistake of building yourself into a corner.
5. They Help Compare Hip vs Gable Roofs
Videos clearly demonstrate the differences:
Feature Gable Roof Hip Roof
Complexity Simple More complex
Wind resistance Moderate Excellent
Materials Less More
Construction skill Beginner Intermediate
6. They Demonstrate Tools Properly
Videos show correct use of tools like:
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circular saw
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speed square
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framing square
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angle gauge
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laser level
Seeing the tool position and cutting technique is invaluable.
7. They Save Years of Trial-and-Error
In the past, carpenters learned this knowledge through apprenticeships lasting 4 years.
Now a few good tutorials can compress decades of practical knowledge into a few hours.
A Tip From Builders
Professional carpenters often watch several different videos on the same subject.
Why?
Each carpenter explains the process slightly differently. One video may suddenly make the geometry “click”.
I once studied refrigeration. I had 5 books on the subject by 5 different authors. I remember one concept I had trouble getting my head around. Explanations from four did not clear up my confusion, but the fifth hit the right spot, just by his method of explanation it suddenly all become clear. So don’t be afraid of reading a number of different explanations.
One Interesting Insight for Your Project
If you are building our typhoon-resistant bungalow, watching videos helps you visualize:
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load paths
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rafter forces
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ridge loading
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wind uplift points
Those are exactly the things engineers focus on when designing cyclone-resistant roofs.
Probably the best place to start is to have a look at what you are learning to build. It is a basic map shows the various components and their locations on the roof frame. You will find a roof map for the ‘Warrego’ RHS roof on SKETCH 30. And a roof map for the Gable roof on SKETCH 31.
And details for the RHS hip roof in the following file:
“RHS steel framed hip roof for WARREGO Typhoon Proof Bungalow.pdf
HIP Roof Layout
Gable Roof Layout
MASTER THAT SPEED SQUARE
THE FOLLOWING LINKS WILL TEACH ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW TO BECOME PROFICIENT IN USING THE SPEED SQUARE
THE WALL MODULES
Before you can build the wall models, you first need an assembly jig.
Refer Sketch 7 and Sketch 17A for the design and dimensions of the Jig Table.
Have a look at the photos of my boys making the Wall Modules for the first Bandera Bungalow that I built in the Philippines.
Start with the “A” Module. Cut the 102mmx51mm Purlins as per cutting list on SKETCH 18 sheet.
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Clamp the Purlins to the table at locations show. (4x 2.350m Purlins at 300mm centres.)
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Make sure that the first Purlin on the left is flush with the edge of table. That will be the edge of the “A” module, the first Module on the longest wall. Refer Sketch 11 for position of Module “A”. Clamp rest of the Purlins at 300mm centres as per Sketch 18 to Sketch 22.
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Apply Industrial adhesive zig-zag fashion along top of exposed Purlins. Carefully place 15mm Industrial 2.4mmx1.2mm Plywood sheet in place. Carefully lining up with plywood guides on bottom right side and right top. Check Sketch 17A.
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Use a stringline or straight edge to run pencil line along centreline of each purlin for self tapping screws.
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When sure plywood sheet is in place, install a few self tapping screws. Recheck alignment, then apply self tapping screws every 300mm along each purlin centre line. Pull screws in to be flush with face of plywood or a little lower.
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Remove clamps holding Purlins to Jig, fit top 1.2m Purlin in place after applying adhesive, clamp in place and insert screws.
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The top purlin needs one more operation before fitting it. Check Sketches of each wall module for detail. There is a 50mm round or square hole required on evert top Purlin. This hole is for electric cables.
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The next step is to flip the module end for end. Line up to the bottom right and top right ply guides.
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Add adhesive to Purlin top, set Ply sheet in place, clamp install self tapping screws.
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That Wall Module is now complete.
Follow the same procedure in fabrication all other modules. The quantity of each module style required is per Sketch 11.
The thickness of the modules must be taken into consideration when working out width of the modules. The Outer modules have 15mm thick plywood skins so 15mm twice plus the 102mm width of a purlin gives a total thickness of the module to be 132mm.
MANUFACTURING THE WALL MODULES
Once you have the Jig Table constructed, the first step is to lay the pre-cut 102mmx 51mm steel Purlins which will be the internal skeleton for the Wall Modules, into the locations as per the particular Module design, clamping both ends with adjustable clamps.
Refer Sketch 17B for Clamping detail. Also, have a look at Sketch 29 showing a cutaway of a “B” Wall Module. Also, Sketch 12 which shows internal steel frame layout.
Each Wall module has it’s own Purlin locations, so refer to the particular Sketch for each Wall Module design.
You can find Wall Module Purlin layouts in the following Sketches:
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Sketch 18: Wall Module “A” Beginning Module (4 units)
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Sketch 19: Wall module “B” standard width 1 .2m wide. Common Module
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Sketch 20: Wall module “C” Right hand end module (4 units)
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Sketch 21: Wall module “D” Window Frame Module (depends on quantity of windows)
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Sketch 22: Wall Module “E” Door Jamb Module (depends on quantity of doors)
Plywood skin for Wall Modules
Outer wall Modules have 115mm Industrial ply both sides of Module. Inside wall Modules have Hardiflex sheets or equiv: 4.5mm. 6mm or 9mm thickness (your choice)
ERECTING THE PREBUILD WALL MODULES
The first step in installing wall modules is to attach the steel floor purlin that will anchor the Modules firmly to concrete floor.
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Start by pre drilling floor purlins with holes for chemical hold down bolts or Dynabolts.
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The holes must be 65mm from edge of primary slab or 209mm from inner edge of exoskeleton steel posts. (Refer sketch 2A and sketch 5 for details) These holes should be clearance holes for 12mm dia bolts, spaced 400mm apart, excluding 1.2 meter sections for doors. Installing Dynabolts this close to the edge of concrete can crack the concrete unless the concrete is completely cured. With completely cured concrete you can use 12mm Dynabolts (expander type). If insufficiently cured, go for 12mm Chemical Anchors. Bore holes 100mm deep.
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Mark the Floor Purlin centre line along primary concrete slab 65mm from edge of concrete. Or 209mm from the inner edge of the steel Exoskeleton posts.
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Mark hole locations on slab for chemical hold bolts using pre-drilled holes in floor purlin as a guide. A better procedure is to drill a beginning hole on line, insert a 12mm locating pin to assure accuracy for the rest of the holes. Air blow concrete dust from holes and when happy with location/positions, insert all Chemical bolts/or Dyna bolts.
WALL MODULE TOP ANCHOR BRACKET
Before mounting Wall Modules you need to attach two angle steel brackets ( Sketch 2C) to top inner side of wall Module. Refer Sketch 2C again for details.
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With perimeter Floor Purlin fitted, and the wall Module top angle brackets fitted. Temporarily set up wall module in place on floor purlin, clamp top of module to top brackets, mark location holes on brackets on inside of top module, remove module and drill 2 12mm clearance holes per bracket.
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Start the first module at the begin location as per Sketch 11. The beginning point is the top wall on sketch 11 left end. Select a Module A
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Set Module over floor Purlin, insert two 12mm x 40mm hex head bolts per top angle brackets as per Sketch 2C and tighten nuts. Insert 8g x25mm Head Carbon Screws (20 cm apart) both sides of module base to floor purlin.
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When you have Module “A” in place and bolted at top, select next module which is a “B” Module. Exact same procedure as before, but now this module must lock into back end of the “A” Module as per Sketch 14. Apply industrial adhesive to both sides protruding purlin in leading edge of module “B” When locked in place, also insert 8g x25mm Head Carbon Screws (20 cm apart) both sides of module, also screw to floor purlin. Same goes for all modules as per Sketch 11.
Adjustable Clamp
Hex Socket Self Tapping Screws
GET IN CONTACT
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ASK A QUESTION
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SHARE IDEAS OR SUGGESTIONS
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SHARE PHOTOGRAPHS OF YOUR BUILD
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SHARE YOUR EXPERIENCE
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TELL US YOUR STORY
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SUPPORT THE PROJECT
